Scenic & Historic Dell Rapids
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Entire Video
written by
Geraldine Hainje
sung by
“The Quarry Tones”
(Music Track from American legion Auxiliary group)
By the Dells of the Big Sioux River lies a city that’s fair to see.
in the heart of the great Sioux empire.
She is welcoming you and me.
No place can match her beauty, there’s friendliness in the air.
We are proud to be from Dell Rapids,
Little city with charm so rare.
Many things go to make a city, she has buildings, some old, some new.
There’s a park and a deep, deep quarry, and the beautiful Dells of the Sioux.
But this I most often remember, the sound of the lovely church bells.
And the people, the friendly people, in that dear little city of Dells.
In The Beginning
A half-a-dozen years after the end of the Civil War in June of 1871, a weary, lone traveler on horseback from Osage, Iowa, by the name of Peter Morse, saw a river winding into the distance through an area marked by red cliffs. A year later, two experienced mill men, Dennis and Frank Rice, returned with Peter Morse to this area of red cliffs. They built a dam and set up a saw mill. But, because there were very few trees in the area at that time, they ran out of timber. The men abandoned the saw mill and built a flouring mill instead. The flouring mill’s original stone and wheel still can be seen in the Dell Rapids city park.
Geologists have classified the rock formations in the area as part of the Potsdam Formation — an outcrop running at least 26-hundred feet deep at the Dell Rapids Quarry site. Thousands of years ago, a shift in the Earth’s surface at Dell Rapids caused an enormous fissure, producing the Dells.
A new settlement was established on both sides of the Big Sioux River and was called “Dell City.” Early residents pooled their money to buy a seven-dollar boat to allow them to cross the river. Later, a man called “Uncle” Bill Lyons, operated a ferry. While individual fares were five cents, the cost to transport a team of horses was a dime. By the end of 1872, “Dell City” had a post office, two churches—Baptist and Presbyterian—and a union Sunday School. Because of the “Rapids” on the river that divided the town, its name soon was changed to Dell Rapids. In 1880, the train chugged into town. By then, the town consisted of 993 residents, 50 businesses, and three churches.
While the first house was built in the 1870’s on the north bank of the Big Sioux, expansion of the town soon followed. Over the years the city has grown from the north bank of the river to what is now 10th Street. Before 1960, however, what is now 10th Street was known only as “Lover’s Lane.” In the early 1970’s Dell Rapids began a massive expansion to the north, pleasantly blending the old with the new, with only fond memories of “Lover’s Lane” separating the two.
Church History
On July 21, 1884, a devastating summer storm blew through the countryside, destroying everything in its path. The Congregational Church was completely destroyed. Remnants of the church were purchased by a hardware merchant named J.E. Fargo and converted into a residence at Eighth Street and Orleans Avenue. The Fargo family’s house and life in the 1880’s were immortalized in the novel, “Prairie Girl,” written by Lucile Fargo.
The Baptist Congregation was formed in July of 1872 with 17 members. The first pastor was Rev. William T. Hill, who came in 1873 as a homesteader after having served as a chaplain in the Civil War. The group met in homes until 1880 when a small frame chapel was built on 4th Street. In 1884 a large Victorian style building was erected. In 1986, the original building was refurbished and offices and a fellowship hall were added.
Broken Glass couldn’t break the faith of the Presbyterian Church. Organized in September of 1872, the Presbyterian Church erected a building at Fourth Street and State Avenue. The congregation disbanded in 1943 and the building was remodeled into a residence.
The Dell Rapids Lutheran Church is part of the original Rosendahl Norwegian Evangelical Congregation, organized in 1874. The present church was built with quartzite in 1902, enlarged in 1918, and further expanded in 1961 with an education wing.
The Church of the Living Water Episcopal began with a meeting of lay people in 1879. The first meeting was held in the Exchange Hotel before a downtown building was secured. In 1892 the church started construction of a quartzite building with English architecture at the intersection of Orleans Avenue and High Street—now 6th Street. In 1979, the small congregation disbanded. For the next five years, the structure served as a city museum called the “Heritage Center.” In 1984, the Diocese sold the building to a citizen who converted it into a home.
Another church, the Logan Reformed Congregation, began as a small group in 1902, meeting in the Hart School House east of town. Six years later their first church was dedicated. The congregation held regular worship services in this building until 1967. In September of 1967, services were moved to their new brick building. With the move, the name was changed to the “Reformed Church.”
Catholic railroad workers who homesteaded north of Dell Rapids comprised the majority of a group that celebrated the first mass in Dell Rapids in 1880 in a private home. As numbers increased, later masses were held above the Collins Drug Store. The first Catholic Church was erected in 1899. The present church and rectory were dedicated in 1951. The old church and parsonage were razed in 1964 while a beautiful, new convent was built for the sisters.
The Methodist Episcopal Church was organized in July 1880. The original one-room church was constructed during the next two years. The new brick building, begun in 1950, was dedicated a year later. The parsonage was added in 1962. A ceremonial mortgage burning was held only eight years later.
In the “Roaring Twenties,” Dell Rapids citizens could listen to their very own radio station. The Station call letters were KGDA, which stood for “Kind Greetings, Dells Announcing.” With many churches in town, it’s no surprise that one of the station’s weekly program features was the Methodist Church’s Sunday morning worship service.
Just like radio stations today, KGDA made money by selling advertising spots. Dieson’s (Dee-son’s) store was one of the first businesses in the area to “hear” the benefits of advertising over the air waves. In addition to being innovative, Dell Rapids businesses also are known for their longevity. Ruth’s Beauty Shop, opened during the 1920’s, holds the record for the longest continuous business by the original owner.
Architectural History
As Easterners made their way to Dakota Territory, included with their worldly possessions were their cultural values and refinement. Upon their arrival, lodges, clubs and literary societies were formed to meet their social needs. Architectural ideas were reflected in the homes they built, and mirrored the regions from which they came, such as the “widow’s walk” from the coast of Maine, and from the state of Vermont the classic Queen Anne style with “wrap around” porches and balconies framed in an Italian style arch.
Many other Eastern architectural ideas are noticeable when one takes a look at some of the historic homes in Dell Rapids. Many of these grand old homes remain preserved, adding grace, beauty and style to current residential neighborhoods. Many business buildings have undergone renovation to meet current needs, but have preserved the original architectural style.
Provision for a community water supply began with a town pump near the dam and mill site. In 1894, a quarried rock tower and storage tank with three miles of mains met the needs of residents in their homes and for fire protection. The tower is one of only three of its kind in the United States. A new water tower was constructed in 1961. In 1986, Dell Rapids joined the Minnehaha County Water Corporation, which provides for its present and future water needs.
In 1887, three street lamps illuminated a portion of what used to be Pearl Street—now 4th, or Main. Gas for street lights, home lighting, and cooking became another city utility in 1908. Gas was generated from tar shipped in by rail and processed at a city-operated plant. Natural gas was piped into town in 1961. As gas changed the city’s home energy needs, the M.A. Dieson residence became the first home with a furnace.
Electricity began to supply many of the city’s energy needs as the First World War broke out overseas in 1914. Dell Rapids’ first electricity was generated from turbines powered by water at a dam near Baltic. Electric street lights illuminated “Dells” when the Sterling Electric company wired the city in 1919. Northern States Power Company picked-up the contract the following year and continues to provide the service.
Another utility that hooked-up neighbors was the telephone. In 1897, the Dell Rapids Telephone company began operating with eleven homes and 17 businesses. Yesterday, as today, proper phone etiquette was stressed, being reminded by rule number seven which “…Prohibited profane language or rough usage.”
The city’s first newspaper, The Dells City Journal, first was circulated in 1872. It became the Exponent in 1879 and changed names once again in 1885 when it was called the Dell Rapids Times. In addition to several name changes, the paper has had various owners and has been printed at different locations. Today we know it as the Dell Rapids Tribune.
Quarry History
Perhaps nothing has had a larger impact on the city’s economic development than pink quartzite. The first rock was quarried from a site at the west edge of town. The Simpson Stone Company owned and operated the “East” Quarry from 1885 to 1927. The stone first was used as building blocks that were cut by master stone cutters from Norway, Sweden and Scotland.
In 1911, stone crushing machinery was installed to produce crushed rock. Most of this was used on roads and streets. Before the depression of the 1930’s and mechanization, much of the hard labor was performed by blacks from South Carolina and Louisiana that came to work for the Simpsons.
Dynamite was used to break-off enormous slabs of the quartzite. The workers swung 25-pound hammers to break the rock before loading it into mule-drawn carts. Today the four separate pits now comprise one hole from which trucks haul the stone to be dumped into the crusher.
A disastrous water problem developed as a result of the “One-Hundred-years flood” in 1969 when thirty billion gallons of water ran into the pit. This proved to be very costly to the Quarry, but prevented devastating flooding in the uptown section of Dell Rapids and portions of Sioux Falls.
The Simpson Twins, Mary and Nellie, Operated the Quarry after their father’s death, until 1927, when they sold it to the L.G. Everist Company of Sioux City, Iowa.
Because of its color and quality, the rock has had a variety of uses throughout the United States, including in the construction of the Cook County Courthouse in Chicago, the J.C. Penney Headquarters Building in Dallas, and in many buildings in Minneapolis. Rail cars are regularly loaded with rock and pulled to Keokuk, Iowa, for use in the Ferro Silica Industry for the manufacture of quality steel. It is likely that farmers nationwide have a little bit of the Quarry in all of their heavy machinery. While rock from the Quarry is used nationwide, it is also exported. On a regular basis, Dell Rapids rock rides the rails to Canada. It has also been shipped to South America and many other parts of the world.
Following the disastrous fire of 1888, which almost completely destroyed Main Street, a city ordinance was passed requiring all Main Street buildings to be of durable construction. As a result, the Main Street buildings and many other structures throughout the city became clearly reflective of the huge quartzite industry. Most of these quartzite structures are still in use; however, some have outlived their usefulness, such as the lonely antique hitching posts that haven’t seen business in years.
Another, not-so-well-known industry that extracted its livelihood from the Dell Rapids soil was brick-making. Brick-making was an important industry according to 1884 records. Before any quartzite buildings were constructed in town, 12 to 15 men produced 20-to-30-thousand bricks a day from the exceptionally-fine clay found northeast of town. Nearby, flax straw was processed to help make the bricks. A good example of how the bricks were used is the Quentin Nemmers home east of Dell Rapids. Several other homes and some of the buildings on Main Street also were built using Dell Rapids Brick.
Educational History
While the architectural foundation of many Dell Rapids homes is quartzite, the city’s rock-solid educational foundation was established in 1873. The first teacher—Juanita Alexander—taught the first lessons during a three-month term in a room rented in the Mann Residence at 7th and Dakota. In 1876, a wood-frame building was erected to serve 54 children at the site of the present elementary school. According to records, a terrible wind storm blew through town in 1884 and leveled the school house.
While a two-story “quartzite” school building, designed by the famous designer, Wallace Dow, was being built, interim classes were held at the Episcopal Hall on Main Street and in the Baptist Church. In 1905, a large, impressive front addition was constructed of stone by master stone cutters. After serving the educational needs of the city for nearly a century, the building was razed in 1982 and a monument and plaque placed on the steps—a gift from the alumni.
A frame auditorium was built in 1914 for basketball games, school functions, classes, and public meetings. Basketball involved girls as well as boys’ teams. The last basketball was dribbled there in 1959. A decade later the building was torn down when the new high school was built.
In 1890, five Dell Rapids students received their diplomas from Professor E. C. Sutton during the first commencement ceremonies. They were Nellie Harrington, Guy Nehr, Zaida Richardson-Mallory, Amelia Hartman-Silkensen and Mabel Thorne. The centennial honoring that first graduation exercise was celebrated July 7th and 8th, 1990, at the fifth all-school reunion. One-thousand alumni, family and friends participated in a weekend of activities, which included golf, a banquet, dance, an ecumenical church service and picnic. Graduates representing classes from 1915 to 1990 came from throughout the United States.
While the first school room in Dell Rapids was rented from a home-owner in 1873, nearly 80 years later, in 1950, the school board acquired the Dieson home at 6th and State to provide four new classrooms. It was torn down in 1982 to make room for a Kindergarten addition.
Several educators have played key roles in shaping the Dell Rapids school system. From 1907 to 1935, U.S. Earls served as school superintendent. The title, “Superintendent Emeritus,” was conferred to Earls after 28 years of service. Henry Speh (Spay) held the office from 1949 to 1968. The junior-senior high school, which opened in 1970, is dedicated to his years of service.
The community’s progressive education system is reflected by its modern facilities and its efforts to meet the learning capacities of all students.
Since the 1950’s, the Dell Rapids High School Marching Band has received first in many national and international band competitions.
Parochial school education offers students yet another learning option in Dell Rapids.
Saint Mary Catholic School was dedicated by Bishop O’Gorman in 1910. The school system has had the distinction of being the only South Dakota parochial school of 12 grades that’s entirely supported by one parish.
The elementary school began with 125 students. One high school grade was added each year until the four-year level was attained. The original school building housed private bedrooms for the Presentation Sisters and a dormitory for boarding students on the upper floor. Classrooms for all grade-levels were held on the main floor.
In 1915, the first high school graduating class included Sedalia Capesius (Cah-pay-shus), Henry Collins, Grace Farrell, Leon Farrell, Irene Luken and Caroline and Gertrude Schaefer. In 1925, the Guardian Angel Statue was placed on the front lawn and dedicated to the children of the parish by their parents. Ground was broken by Monsignor P. P. Meyer for the new Saint Mary High School on April 5, 1957. Classrooms were completed for use in September, 1958.
Agricultural History
While Dell Rapids Public and Parochial Schools have been sowing the seeds of knowledge for over a century, the city’s agricultural roots are just as entrenched.
The city’s agricultural ties can be traced back to pioneer Lyman S. Merry. He left the rocky, wooded land of west-central Wisconsin in June of 1873 to file for a homestead in the Dell Rapids area. Back in Wisconsin, preparing for his second journey to Dakota, he claimed: “You could put your plow in the virgin sod and turn a furrow 40 rods long and not hit a stone.”
With such promise for a good life from farming, Lyman S. Merry, like many others, helped to produce the agricultural empire that surrounds Dell Rapids to this day. Blessed with sufficient rainfall and rich soil, it’s no wonder that Dell Rapids is known for its lush pastures and abundant hay and grain crops. The excellent market for grain has contributed significantly to the overall growth and economic stability of Dell Rapids.
Today, just as in the early 1880’s, grain haulers may be lined up for blocks waiting to unload wheat, oats, corn, flax or soy beans. In 1925, the Farmer’s Grain Company was the town’s largest business. Today it remains one of the largest and best operations in the area.
While farming has played a vital role in Dell Rapids, some talented individuals have planted their marks on agriculture. Research conducted by plant pathologist Doctor Charlotte Elliot, who came to Dell Rapids with her parents at age two in 1884, has enhanced the production of hybrid corn. She is directly responsible for the success of hybrid corn production. Despite her international reputation, she always considered Dell Rapids her home.
In 1945, the Dekalb Seed Corn Company established several fields in the area to raise hybrid seed. Female rows were detasseled by hand by a crew of 20 girls headed by Kathrin Thompson Zylstra. While World War II took many men away from town, the girls found the work to be “no snap.” Despite their weariness and discomfort, they stuck to the job. Hybrid corn continues to be the major cultivated crop raised by farmers in the area.
Even the moon appears to be frowning in sympathy as the strenuous work of harvest goes on. But beauty and satisfaction are some of the rewards of area residents as well as farmers during the harvest season. Today crops are planted, cultivated and harvested using the most modern machinery. In the early days, however, all corn was picked by hand. In 1938, the J. N. Jensen farm northeast of town was selected as the site for the National Hand Corn Picking Contest. Over 125 thousand people, from as far away as New York, arrived in 35 thousand cars to watch the event!
While field crops continue to dominate the economy, dairying and cattle feeding also add to the agricultural diversity and prosperity of the area.
Recreational History
Dating back to the city’s first inhabitants, Dell Rapids citizens have not only worked hard but also have played hard. Town celebrations, parades and activities that appeal to all ages and show community pride occur throughout the year.
The first recreational areas were at the Dells. Children climbed up and down the steep sides and adults picnicked. Children also found plenty to do at the Old Mill where they could walk across the dam on slippery planks or crawl around the old building while adults fished. Early recreation also centered around “meeting the train.” In winter, Beto’s and Saint Mary’s hill provided thrills and spills for many children …. a tradition still alive today.
The City Park and Bathing Beach were established at the river in 1913. The bathhouse was built in 1914 and remodeled in 1923. A quarried stone bathhouse was built in 1934 as a Civil Works Administration project. It was placed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1986. An Amphitheater of the same Dell Rapids quartzite was constructed in 1936—A Works Progress Administration Project.
In 1917, the beautiful sand beach in Dell Rapids was said to be the best in the area, with diving towers, ring trapeze, floats, safety cables, and a 40-foot speed chute. Use of the river’s bathing beach was discontinued in 1960 when swimming and wading pools and a new bathhouse were built. Streets in the park were laid out in 1917. Walking paths, bandstand, food stand, and pavilion were provided the same year.
Lawrence Welk’s band was one of the many to provide dance music in the building, which burned in 1947. After the fire, a cement block building was built for dancing and roller skating. This new pavilion, which featured many well known bands, was considered to be the largest ballroom in South Dakota. The building later was used by Dakota Industries to make clothes before being sold to a fiberglass tub manufacturer. During this time a massive explosion destroyed the building, and it’s never been replaced. The old food stand is used as a picnic shelter, and the American Legion has added two more shelters to service park users.
A free camping area and baseball field are located across the river. Professionals and talented local players have kept the sport alive since the turn of the century. For years people could cross the river to the ball diamonds by walking across the steel span bridge, built in 1885. For public safety reasons, the bridge was torn down in 1990.
Before names like Palmer, Nicolas, and Trevino brought the game of golf to the public spotlight, local enthusiasts had a course of a sort on the hilly area south of the “Dells.” In 1965 work began on a nine-hole course west of town. Since then it’s grown more beautiful and useful. The clubhouse not only meets the needs of golfers, but serves many other community needs as well.
After a disastrous downtown fire in 1888, citizens turned their efforts to rebuilding. Among the most important projects was a campaign for a “Good Opera House.”
The Grand Opera House first raised its curtain in 1888 to a production titled “Lynwood” by a professional touring company. The Grand Opera House staged theater productions until 1912 when the O’Leary Brothers purchased the building and converted it into a movie house. It was used as such until 1938 when John Underwood built a new classic art deco style theater.
From the early 50’s to 1976, the Grand Old Opera House was again used for a variety of stage productions. A group called The Old Opera House Players, also known as OOPS, was formed in 1976 to reestablish the city’s tradition of live theater. The group’s name was selected because one of its goals was to own and restore the Old Grand Opera House. Unable to attain that goal, it has staged its productions at various locations, including the front porch of the Dells Hotel and a tent on the south bank of the Big Sioux River.
In 1990 the Old Opera House Players moved into a converted barn and named it the “Hayloft Theater.”Medical History
While Dell Rapids residents take pride in working and playing hard, the city and surrounding community also takes pride in its quality medical services. Health care in Dell Rapids began in the late 1800’s.
The first hospital care was provided by Dr. C. A. Butler and his wife, a nurse, in their home at the corner of 4th Street and State Avenue. In 1907, two physicians joined their practices to establish a clinic. The partnership of Doctors M. M. Grove and J. B. Eagan furnished hospital facilities for surgical procedures and other medical services in rooms above the Granite City Bank in the Smith Block.
In 1915, a new 16-bed hospital was built through community support. As the hospital’s medical and surgical departments flourished, the facility became known as a regional medical center. In later years individuals in the medical field that were reared in Dell Rapids have distinguished themselves nationally and internationally. For example, Doctor Roger Haugen refined the Heimlich Maneuver to treat choke victims and Doctor Robert Voy served as the Chief Medical Officer for the United States Olympic Teams from 1979 to 1987.
The new medical center also offered a 3-year nursing school program that operated until 1936. In addition to the intensive class work taught by the doctors and pharmacist William Voy, the program also included intensive bedside training provided by the Director of Nursing. The graduates were qualified to take the South Dakota State Board Examinations to become registered nurses. Nine dedicated nurses were graduated in the first class. Along with top-notch medical care training, nursing students were furnished living quarters at a home located at 4th and Iowa Street.
Another house, popularly called the “Doctor’s House,” was built by Doctor O. O. Sawyer at the corner of 5th and LaDelle and over the years was occupied by Doctors Eagan, Housman and Fisk and their families until Fisk retired in 1977. The general practice of Doctors M. M. and A. F. Grove and Doctor J. B. Eagan included abdominal, thoracic and traumatic cases involving skull and brain injuries. The surgical skill of Doctors M. M. and A. F. Grove was widely acclaimed. These two physicians had received their training from some of the same instructors who taught the world famous doctors, Charles and William Mayo, founders of the Mayo Clinic.
While Doctor M.M. Grove died in 1928 and Dr. Eagan suffered a stroke in 1940, the hospital and clinic continued. In 1948 and 1957, Doctors P. K. Aspaas and R. G. Fisk joined the medical practice of A. F. Grove.
Responding to the need for a larger, more modern medical facility, a new community hospital was opened in 1960. Several hospital expansions have provided better laboratory facilities, a physical therapy unit, and an extensive wellness center. Some rooms are specially equipped for coronary and intensive care. The Wellness Center, with its post-coronary, post-surgery and orthopedic rehabilitation departments, never rests as it constantly adds new equipment. Ambulances staffed with paramedics and emergency medical technicians respond to the community’s emergency transportation needs.
The old hospital was used as a clinic until 1981 when a new physician’s clinic building was built next to the hospital to house laboratory and X-ray facilities. The old hospital and clinic building was converted to a senior citizens center. Dental care is well staffed with excellent dentists and modern facilities.
If custodial care is needed, Dell Rapids has a tradition of professional, quality care that dates back to 1910 when the Odd Fellow and Rebekah Lodges built a home for the care of children and elderly men. The memories associated by the “Home Kids” causes many former residents to gather for reunions … as in 1990. In addition to the Odd Fellows Home, Terrace Manor, A licensed nursing care complex, is available for custodial care. Friendship Villages one and two are among other multiple-unit housing facilities available to area citizens.
Conclusion
A weary, lone traveler on horseback from Osage, Iowa…The first pink quartzite quarried east of town…early educators like Juanita Alexander…Visionary religious leaders…Homesteaders like Lyman S. Merry…Hybrid corn research by Doctor Charlotte Elliot…The 1938 National Hand Corn Picking contest…The city park and bathing beach…The Grand Opera House…and Medical Pioneers like Doctors M.M. and A.F. Grove.
Just as it takes many particles to form Quartzite…Many people and events shape a city. With its proud history and promising future, Dell Rapids, South Dakota, remains a city that’s fair to see … and always welcomes you and me.
